DINING
TROCADERO, DUBLIN 2
THE ROOM Dublins self-proclaimed
theatre
restaurant,
Trocaderos
lilting jazz, vintage light fittings,
plush red velvet and signed portraits
of actors who have dined there add
to its clublike allure. ON THE PLATE
The nostalgic theme continues on
the menu with retro favourites such
as prawn cocktail, chicken liver pâté
and deep-fried Brie to start followed
by classics such as Barbary duck,
rack of lamb and a choice of steaks.
There are a couple of pasta-based
vegetarian options too. WHAT
ELSE? The Troc, as it is affectionately
known, has garnered a fiercely loyal
following among the theatre set in its
65 years. Past visitors include Ralph
Fiennes, Charlize Theron, Mel Gibson
and Johnny Depp. Trocadero, 4, St
Andrews Street, Dublin 2, 01 677
5545; www.trocadero.ie.
Tables for Two
These romantic
restaurants are so
seductive you may just
find yourself caught up
in the moment, says
Ciara McQuillan,
so choose your dining
companion wisely ...
Trocadero
LOCKS, DUBLIN 8
THE ROOM A cosy, tasteful ground floor dining room
in a beguiling canalside setting, offering near perfect
people, canine and swan-watching opportunities.
Window tables are in high demand; book ahead to secure
one. There are tables upstairs too and a sweet little bar
for two. ON THE PLATE Cold-smoked Castelvetrano
olives, Dooncastle oysters and barbecued lamb belly
are just some of the pre-dinner nibbles to enjoy while
inspecting the menu. Choosing between salt-aged beef
tartare with smoked beef fat and pickled mustard seeds
or grilled octopus with brown butter hollandaise is no
easy task but be assured, whatever you choose will be
very good. To finish, its a toss-up between the Basque
cheesecake or five minutes alone with the cheese trolley.
WHAT ELSE? Its Dublins worst-kept secret that many
chefs of note dine in Locks on a Sunday afternoon: you
will be in good company. Locks Restaurant, 1 Windsor
Terrace, Dublin 8, 01 416 3655; www.locksrestaurant.ie.
RISTORANTE
RINUCCINI, KILKENNY
THE ROOM On Medieval Mile, in the
shadow of imposing Kilkenny Castle,
Ristorante Rinuccini is a cosy space
that exudes warmth and refinement.
This classic Italian restaurant has
been going strong since 1989 and has
mastered the art of the perfect Italian
meal experience. ON THE PLATE A
starter of seared Kilmore Quay scallops
with crispy prosciutto and green
pea risotto and ravioli alla crema di
gorgonzola. WHAT ELSE? Finish with a
glass of Vin Santo from the impressive
wine list (there is a whole list dedicated
to Supertuscans) and a classical babà al
rum Napoletano before floating on air,
all the way home. Ristorante Rinuccini,
1 The Parade, Kilkenny, 056 7761575;
www.rinuccini.com.
Ristorante Rinuccini
Locks
The Pullman at Glenlo Abbey
ADRIFT AT DUNMORE
HOUSE, CO WATERFORD
THE PULLMAN AT GLENLO ABBEY, CO GALWAY
THE ROOM On the ground floor of the familyowned Dunmore House Hotel with spellbinding
views out over Clonakilty Bay, this restaurant
is airy and inviting. ON THE PLATE The menu
displays the proprietors commitment to using
local West Cork ingredients from both land and
sea. A starter of poached lobster with marinated
fennel salad and tomato water is both light
and indulgent while my black sole on the bone
with chard, lemon and caper butter is flawless.
WHAT ELSE? A postprandial moonlight stroll by
Clonakilty Bay or a fireside nightcap. Whichever
you choose, in this setting, could be risky,
romantically. Dunmore House, Clonakilty, West
Cork, 023 883 3352; www.dunmorehousehotel.ie.
THE ROOM Comprising two beautifully restored carriages from
The Orient Express, the Pullman is a unique dining experience
on the grounds of Glenlo Abbey, overlooking Lough Corrib.
Its a truly splendiferous setting, and one Agatha Christie fans
will fall head over heels for. One of the carriages, Leona, dates
from 1927 and was featured in the 1974 film adaptation of
Agatha Christies, Murder on the Orient Express starring Albert
Finney, Lauren Bacall and Sean Connery. ON THE PLATE Start
proceedings with a Hemingway Daiquiri before choosing from
dishes including Inishmore crab and beef fillet with brown
butter pomme purée, lovage and bone marrow onions before
finishing with a slice of gateau or perhaps a plateau de fromage.
WHAT ELSE? Go full Poirot and end your memorable meal
with a crème de menthe, frappé or not. Glenlo Abbey Hotel,
Bushypark Co Galway, 091 519 600; www.glenloabbeyhotel.ie.
38 February 2023 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE
Adrift at Dunmore House
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DINING TROCADERO, DUBLIN 2 THE ROOM Dublins self-proclaimed theatre restaurant, Trocaderos lilting jazz, vintage light fittings, plush red velvet and signed portraits of actors who have dined there add to its clublike allure. ON THE PLATE The nostalgic theme continues on the menu with retro favourit
BOOKS BOOKS Reading Notes Orna Mulcahy finds fascinating books for February T HE LAST TALE OF THE FLOWER BRIDE (Hodder & Stoughton, €19) is the first adult novel from best-selling American YA author Roshani Chokshi and its very good. A dark love story with a Gothic feel, it recalls the best, mos
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46 February 2023 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE CHRISTOPHER HORWOOD (from four townhouses), with additional help from Buchanan Studio, former set designers known for their cool aesthetic. La Colombe dOr art hotel in St Paul de Vence in the South of France, where magnificent art is coolly and casually displa
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ENVIRONMENT A Drop in The Ocean Holly Hughes discovers a community of composters Virginia OGara of the Cork Urban Soil Project (CUSP). F ood waste is not a pollutant, its a treasured resource, Virginia OGara, one of the founders of the Cork Urban Soil Project (CUSP), tells me. We are speaking i
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