WINE
WINE
A Higher
Calling
Julie Dupouy finds wines with altitude
Douro Valley, Portugal
A
s many of you dig out your thermal layers and head to the ski
slopes for your first break of the new year, Dry January will
be a fading memory. The idea of a refreshing aperitif or a giddy
lunch to break the day up are all part of the draw. Hearty, caloriereplenishing fondues, raclette or schnitzel beg for a crisp and
equally satisfying glass to accompany them.
New wines are part of the memories we take from such high-altitude adventures.
These wines are not just a holiday fling there is true majesty in the wines of these
stunning mountainous regions.
The Centre for Research, Environmental Sustainability and Advancement of
Mountain Viticulture (CERVIM) devotes its work to what
is known as Heroic Viticulture the preservation of
vineyards in the worlds most challenging wine regions.
This includes those over 500 metres above sea level, remote
island vineyards with challenging topography and of course
those steep mountainous vineyards with over 30 degrees
of gradient.
In cool-climate mountainous areas, steep slopes promote
better airflow between vine rows and within the vine canopy.
This lowers the risk of both frost and fungal diseases, yielding
cleaner grapes at harvest time. Steeper gradients allow
greater exposure to sunlight as well as promoting excellent
drainage during wet periods. For every 100 metres of altitude,
temperatures can drop by up to one degree celsius. High-altitude vineyards also
experience greater temperature variations between day and night. This fixes higher
acidity in the grapes and yields bright, vibrant and energetic wines. Higher vineyards
also benefit from greater exposure to UV light, promoting thicker skins and greater
phenolic character, particularly in red wines.
Some incredibly special wines come from these entirely heroic regions.
Lombardys Valtellina, Côte Rôtie in the Northern Rhône Valley, Spains Ribeira
Sacra, the Douro Valley in Portugal or the Italian island of Pantelleria are all
hugely popular with oeno-tourists.
Other regions partially qualify. For instance, the hill of Cartizze, located at the
heart of Valdobbiadene in Italys Veneto region known for Prosecco production
is famous for the steepness of its slopes which range between 30 degrees and a
whopping 60 degrees. It is truly breathtaking and viewed head-on, the vines look
like they are thriving on a sun-splashed wall.
Some of my favourite mountain wines are grown in the region of Savoie in France.
Savoie offers myriad styles made from local grape varieties such as Mondeuse,
Jacquére, Altesse and Gringet. Mondeuse, a relative of Syrah, gives wines with a
beautiful purple colour, generous dark fruit with a floral and spicy aromatic profile.
The best examples come from Arbin, a small vineyard of approximately 30 hectares
located between Chambéry and Albertville. Mondeuse would be perfect with roast
chicken with all the trimmings or for a more traditional pairing, a classic tartiflette,
black pudding with pomme purée, a cheese tart or even a pot au feu.
Look out for the wines of Chignin-Bergeron made from the Roussanne grape
variety. They are versatile and robust when accompanying white meat such as
poultry or veal or even meaty seafood like monkfish. Serve with a cream-based
sauce delicately scented with saffron or curry spices. Alternatively, surprise your
guests by offering them with a selection of cheeses.
Over the border, in Italys tiny Valle dAosta region, are
some of the highest vineyards in Europe, reaching altitudes
over 1,000 metres. Over a dozen grape varieties are permitted
for production. Some are indigenous to Italy such as Petit
Rouge, Nebbiolo locally known as Picotendro and Fumin.
International varieties such as Gamay, Müller-Thurgau, Petite
Arvine, Syrah and Pinot Grigio have fortified the reputation of
this beautiful region.
Tiny production of Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle, made
from Prié Blanc are absolutely worth seeking out. Its vines
grow at an altitude of 900-1,200 metres on low pergola-style
trellises to absorb as much heat from the ground as possible
and encourage ripening. Prié Blanc is only found in this part of the world and
produces wines which are delicately scented with aromas of white flowers, citrus
fruits, fragrant herbs and with some age, develop slightly richer notes of honey.
On the palate, they are racy and commonly have a touch of spritz, making them
ideal candidates as an aperitif or with seafood. Miniscule quantities are vinified into
sparkling or sweet dessert wines.
There is no way to sugar-coat it, heroic viticulture costs a little more. Harvests are
lower, slower and cannot be mechanised. The wines produced are a real labour of
love and the end result is often wonderfully memorable. Reassuringly, lower quality
wines typically fall by the wayside as the challenges are too great to persist with,
so reliability is high relative to spend. I feel the few extra euros for a heroically
produced wine are merited, a respectful acknowledgement of the backbreaking
work it takes to produce our moment of joy.
In the words of Mark Twain: The air up there in the clouds is very pure and fine,
bracing and delicious. And why shouldnt it be it is the same the angels breathe.
@julie_dupouy
THERE IS NO WAY TO
SUGAR-COAT IT, HEROIC
VITICULTURE COSTS A
LITTLE MORE. HARVESTS
ARE LOWER, SLOWER AND
CANNOT BE MECHANISED.
HEROIC VITICULTURE
Arbin Mondeuse,
Terre dOrigine,
Fabien Trosset,
Savoie, France, 26;
www.64wine.ie.
Blanc de Morgex
et de La Salle,
Ermes Pavese, Vallee
dAoste, Italy, 38.99;
www.greenmanwines.ie.
Crémant de Savoie
(Brut Alpin), Domaine
Blard, Savoie, France,
39; www.siyps.ie.
Vin des Allobroges
(Silice Blanc),
Domaine des
Ardoisières, Savoie,
France, 28;
www.elywinebar.ie.
Petite Arvine,
Domaine René
Favre & Fils, Valais,
Switzerland, 29.95;
www.searsons.com.
Petite Arvine
(Les Crêtes),
Constantino
Charrère, Vallee
DAoste, Italy,33.95;
www.lecaveau.ie.
THE GLOSS MAGAZINE February 2023 37
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