FOOD
Cook or Go
Out To Eat?
Trish Deseine weighs the options for Valentines Day
I
ts a tricky one, Saint Valentines Day, for the over-16s. Restaurants can quickly
become theatres of self-consciousness, particularly those deemed romantic
all year round and expected to hard deliver on February 14. Thankfully in
France, we also have plenty of brisk, noisy, quite impersonal, yet formal,
brasseries, with cosy banquettes, where you can be as demonstrative as
you like and no one will notice. Friends Fred and Elliott take themselves to Lipp on
Boulevard Saint Germain, as they would on any other evening they fancied a treat. My
friend Sophie has a passion (which I fully share) for luxury hotel bars on a date. The
atmosphere is feutré (soft), the service like a ballet, snacks are refined and cocktails
often exciting. Its fun to people watch with a piano gently playing in the background.
Without going full goblin mode and depending, probably, on what stage of the
romance you are at, why not skip the dining table altogether and eat in bed? At the very
least, it ups your chances of seven hours shut-eye, a rare gift for so many of us, be it
because of babies, children, jobs or hormones.
A quick poll amongst my wise French girlfriends harvests varying degrees of energy
for hitting the kitchen. For celebrity cook and entrepreneuse, Luana, for example, its
the one day of the year where she doesnt cook! Most of the others, shrugging Gallically,
simply advise spoiling your loved one with his or her favourite dish.
Bestselling French cookbook author, Keda Black, swears by quick-to-cook,
luxurious, scallops. I do Saint-Jacques.
Either super-fancy: chopped leeks and shallots
cooked in butter with white wine, lemon and
cream, scallops cooked in the shells topped
with brown buttered breadcrumbs, grilled in
a hot oven ten minutes and served with piped
duchesse potatoes. Or the simplest sliced raw
with a tiny drop of bergamot olive oil, lemon
juice and zest, fleur de sel and a citrussy black
pepper or pink peppers.
This is all fine and dandy if you are far
enough into the relationship to know your
dining companions tastes, and if you are not
confronted with a picky eater with dictatorial
table manners, who will seriously cramp your style and curb your enthusiasm. I once
dated probably the only Frenchman who didnt eat garlic, policed my knife handling,
despised all fresh herbs and any type of leaf or flower garnish.
But I still believe in love, and that Saint Valentines is the one night where you really can
take your time to gracefully decorate or plate a dish, or entirely cover it in flowers if you
feel like it. Roses after all (with a quick rinse) are an edible flower, and in February you
will find pansies and violets for decoration and nibbling. They look perfectly gorgeous
on individual chocolate tarts or covering a larger cake. Cooking more formally for just
two also means you can attempt dishes with more luxurious ingredients but simple to
cook a touch of black truffle over steak, or a teeny touch of caviar mixed through
cream whipped with a wine reduction, served with, say, steamed potatoes and turbot or
sole. Or you could try my lobster linguine, which is more laborious, but worth it.
The power and romance of a shared love of food is undeniable, and I always take
heart from other friends romantic rituals. Mona and José, now together for over 30
years, would book a table at their local Portuguese bistro in Paris every year, and
always ordered Porco Alentejana pork and clams cooked in a cataplana, a traditional
copper pan, shaped like a plump flying saucer. Their love long outlived the restaurant,
however, and now Mona cooks the dish at home come February 14. @TrishDeseine
@trishdeseineencore
THE POWER AND
ROMANCE OF A
SHARED LOVE OF FOOD
IS UNDENIABLE, AND
I ALWAYS TAKE HEART
FROM OTHER FRIENDS
ROMANTIC RITUALS.
36 February 2023 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE
LOBSTER LINGUINE
A labour of love if ever there was one! You can use ready-cooked
lobster meat, but the flavour just wont be the same.
Note there are two batches of cherry tomatoes!
For 2
40 minutes preparation
5060 minutes cooking
1 live lobster, about 450/500g
23 tbsp olive oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled
12/15 cherry tomatoes, cut in half
250g-300g dried linguine or 400g-500g fresh
1/2 bunch of flat-leafed parsley, for decoration
Salt and pepper
For the bisque
1 carrot, peeled
2 stalks of celery about 10cm long
1 large yellow onion peeled
1 tbsp olive oil
50ml whiskey
12 or so cherry tomatoes, cut in half
2 tsps tomato purée
Salt
Prepare the lobster
1. Using a knife, make a cut through the back of the head, in the crack
slightly behind the eyes, to kill it swiftly. Separate the head and claws
from the body.
2. Empty the heads and set them aside. Break the claws at the base.
Cook the bodies and claws in a large pot of salted boiling water for 3 or
4 minutes. Drain and immediately plunge them into a large container of
cold water to stop the cooking.
3. By hand or using a knife, remove the flesh from inside the carcasses of
the bodies and the claws, avoiding tearing it. Cut the flesh of the claws
into large pieces. Reserve the flesh and the carcasses separately.
Prepare the bisque
1. Cut the carrot, celery and onion into 2cm or so thick pieces. Heat the
olive oil in a large pan over medium heat and sauté gently for about 5
minutes. Set aside and use the pan for the next step.
2. Cook the carcasses of the head, claws and body with a tablespoon
of olive oil for 5 minutes over high heat. When they are lightly toasted,
add the carrots, onion and celery, and sauté for a further 5 minutes over
medium heat. Turn up the heat and deglaze the pan by pouring in the
brandy or whiskey and flambéeing the contents carefully.
3. Reduce heat to low, add the tomatoes and tomato purée. Mix, cover
with water, and simmer for 20 minutes over low heat. Strain this through
a fine sieve, keeping only the liquid. This is your bisque.
Pull it together and serve!
1. In a big, heavy-based frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over
medium heat and sauté the garlic cloves for 5 minutes. Add 12/15 cherry
tomatoes and half the bisque. Continue cooking for about 5 minutes over
medium heat. Season.
2. Cook the pasta al dente in a large pot of salted boiling water. Drain it
with a slotted spoon, then put it in the pan. Add the rest of the bisque,
bring to a boil, mixing well, until the liquid is almost absorbed but taking
care that the mixture is not too dry.
3. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil over low heat and fry the flesh of the
bodies and the pieces of claws for 5 or 6 minutes.
10. Arrange the pasta in two large, shallow pasta bowls, add the panfried lobster pieces and sprinkle with parsley leaves. Serve immediately.
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