WINE
Bubbling
Under
Julie Dupouy recommends well-priced sparklers
nd of year is fast approaching and November, as a prelude to the
hectic festive schedule, is a good time to enjoy a little treat under
the guise of some research for your Christmas wine shopping list.
Fortunately (this year in particular) having a glass of bubbly can feel
special without breaking the bank. All my recommendations below
cost under €40.
Champagne, the best known of all, is made using the traditional method which
consists in provoking the refermentation of a still white wine in a closed bottle.
This second fermentation is possible thanks to the addition of tirage liqueur a
mix of wine, yeasts and sugar which promotes the production of carbon dioxide in
the form of fine bubbles. Once this fermentation
is over, the dead yeast, or lees, are left inside
the bottle for a minimum of twelve months
and often far longer. In general, the longer the
period of ageing on the lees, the more the
complex pastry-like flavours will develop, and
this is where prices can really start to soar.
The traditional method of production is not
confined to champagne. Other great examples
include Cava DO, Franciacorta DOCG, Crémant
AOPs, Trento DOC, Tasmania and Nova Scotia
Sparkling among other developing regions.
Those wines offer very high quality alternatives
to champagne, and all have unique characters
worth discovering.
Cava has become the most dynamic European
sparkling wine region in recent years. The heart of production is in Catalonias
Peñedes region. Permitted grapes are numerous but the traditional grapes are Xarello, Parellada and Maccabeo. Reserva and Gran Reserva indicate an extended
period of ageing on the lees, and they should offer more complexity, maturity and
savoury flavours. Paraje Calificado is a single vineyard classification reserved
for wines with distinctive character and quality derived from their special terroir.
Extended ageing supports these more complex wines.
Organic wine-lovers should look out for wines made by the Corpinnat association
a group of renowned producers who have exited the traditional Cava DO and
hold themselves to even more rigorous standards of production. They passionately
believe that their wines deserve to be singled out from the crowded Cava DO
classification and all indications are that the wine world applauds the move.
Crémant is a protected term used in France, Belgium, Luxembourg and Morocco
NOVEMBER IS A
GOOD TIME TO
ENJOY A LITTLE
TREAT UNDER THE
GUISE OF SOME
RESEARCH FOR YOUR
CHRISTMAS WINE
SHOPPING LIST.
to produce sparkling wines made by traditional method. France is by far the largest
producer and each region uses local grape varieties to produce its version. The
quality of crémant in the past was very hit and miss but thankfully, knowledge,
experience and renewed ambition are yielding a more consistent, higher quality
product year in, year out. Hot on the heels of its successful sibling champagne
French crémant offers outstanding quality at a much neater price.
The Charmat method consists in re-refermenting a still wine inside a tank rather
than in the bottle. Once the fermentation is over, the wine is filtered and then
bottled directly, containing dissolved carbon dioxide in the form of bubbles. This
method of vinification is commonly used to produce less expensive, fruit-forward
sparkling wines, destined for early consumption. Prosecco and Lambrusco lead the
way for Charmat production. Wines are labelled semi-sparkling frizzante or fully
sparkling spumante.
The recent Petnat (derived from naturally pétillant or sparkling) revolution
has brought back into fashion the worlds oldest method of producing sparkling
wine the so-called ancestral method. First developed in Frances Languedoc
region in the 16th century by the Benedictine monks of St Hilaire, the method
consists of bottling a wine during its alcoholic fermentation. Its natural sugars
finish fermenting into alcohol and carbon dioxide inside the bottle. Generally the
wines are not filtered and are sold with the lees which leaves a silty deposit inside
the bottle. Bottle variation can be common with this method and sometimes the
funk can dominate, yet the most conscientious producers manage to create fun,
vibrant and delicious wines.
Sparkling wine labelling does itself no favours at times. The terms Extra Dry
or Dry on a label indicates the wine contains a fair amount of sugar 12-17g/l
for the former and 17-32g/l for the latter. If you are conscious of sugar intake, I
would suggest looking out for Brut, Extra Brut or Brut Zero styles, each that
bit drier than the previous.
Whatever your choice of sparkling wine, here are a few tips to coax the best from
them. Make sure the bottle is chilled to eight to ten degrees celsius. Invest in a good
quality stopper so that you have the option to enjoy the bottle, in good condition,
over a couple of days. Serve your bubbly in tulip-shaped wine glasses instead of the
traditional flutes. Yes, enjoying those pretty pearls rising is a charming sight but the
aromatic complexity and character for which you have paid for has far more room
to express itself in a glass with a wider bowl.
Sparkling wines are wonderfully versatile with food but stay away from pairing
with very sweet desserts. Keep pairings simple: creamy cheeses, prawns with
a citrus mayonnaise and even chips are all absolutely delicious with a glass of
bubbly! @julie_dupouy
SPARKLING WINES
Gramona, La
Cuvée, Corpinnat,
Spain, 38;
www.blackrock
cellar.com.
Cava Reserva
Expression,
Dominio de la
Vega, Spain, 32;
www.h2gwines.ie.
60 November 2022 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE
Crémant de
Bourgogne, Jean
Claude Boisset, N 21,
Brut, France, 33.99;
www.jusdevine.ie.
Uivo PT Nat Branco,
Bruto, Portugal, 24;
www.thecorkscrew.ie.
Raventos I Blanc,
Conca del Riu
Anoia, Spain, 35;
www.green
manwines.ie.
Château Dereszla,
Méthode Traditionnelle,
Tokaji, Hungary,
29.95; www.mitchell
andson.com.
PARTY DRESSING / POTENT SCENTS / BOOKS / BUTTER BOARDS / ART-FILLED HOTELS / WHAT WRITERS READ / REINVENTING MEN'S STYLE MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2022 with THE IRISH TIMES s.ie os gl www .th e Add Sparkle! Jewellery trends and how to wear them
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WINE Bubbling Under Julie Dupouy recommends well-priced sparklers nd of year is fast approaching and November, as a prelude to the hectic festive schedule, is a good time to enjoy a little treat under the guise of some research for your Christmas wine shopping list. Fortunately (this year in parti
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