FOOD
WE SAT IN THE GLASS-ENCLOSED BOURGEOIS SPARKLE OF THE MAIN DINING ROOM WITH A FINE
COMBINATION OF TIRED BONES AND BOTTOMS, THIRST, HUNGER, AND THE EFFECT OF ALTITUDE.
AUNT GWENS FRIED
EGG SANDWICHES
INGREDIENTS
Half to 1 cup dripping
12 slices bread
6 fresh eggs
Waxed paper
The dripping is the kind poured off an
unidentified succession of beef, mutton,
and bacon pans, melted gradually into
one dark puddle of thick unappetising
grease, which immediately upon being
dabbed into a thick hot iron skillet
sends out rendingly appetising smells.
The eggs must be fresh, preferably
brown ones, best of all freckled brown
ones. The bread must be good bread,
no puffy, blanched, uniform blotters
from a paper cocoon. The waxed paper
must be of honest quality, since at the
corners where it will leak a little some
of it will stick to the sandwich and in a
way merge with it and be eaten.
METHOD
Heat the dripping in a wide flatbottomed skillet until it spits and
smokes. Break in the eggs, which will
immediately bubble around the edges,
making them crisp and indigestible,
and break their yolks with a fork and
swirl them around, so that they are
scattered fairly evenly through the
whites. This will cook very quickly, and
the eggs should be tough as leather.
Either push them to one side of the
pan or remove them.
Fry bread in the dripping for each
sandwich, two slices to an egg. It
too will send off a blue smoke. Fry
it on one side only, so that when the
sandwiches are slapped together,
their insides will turn soggy at once.
Add to this sogginess by pressing
them firmly together. Wrap them well
in the waxed paper, where they will
steam comfortably.
These sandwiches, if properly made
and wrapped, are guaranteed, if
properly carried in sweater or pinafore
pockets, to make large oily stains
around them. Seasoning depends on
the state of the dripping. As I remember
Aunt Gwens, they were such a fruity
blend of last weeks roast, last months
gammon, that salt and pepper would
have been an insult to their fine flavour.
To be eaten on top of a hill at sunset,
preferably before adolescence and its
priggish queasiness set in.
56 November 2022 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE
when we were indeed happy
at table with more than our
own selves or one other.
And if we succeed in it, our
thinking is dictated no matter
how mysteriously by the
wind, the wine, and the wish
of that particular moment.
Now, for no reason that
I consciously know of,
I remember a lunch at
the Casino at Berne, in
Switzerland. I was with
my father and mother, my
MFK Fisher
husband, and a friend deep
in his own murky moods but
still attainable socially. We had driven there
from Vevey, and we sat in the glass-enclosed
bourgeois sparkle of the main dining room with
a fine combination of tired bones and bottoms,
thirst, hunger, and the effect of altitude. I do
not recall that we drank anything stronger than
sherry before lunch, but we may have.
My father, a forthright man, who had edited a
paper in the hard-liquor days when his Midwest
village had 15 saloons and three churches or
thereabouts, may have downed a drink or two of
Scotch, or the Bernese play on words, ein Gift,
aptly called poison and made of half-sweet
vermouth and half any alcohol from vodka to
gin. Then, and this is the part I best remember,
we had carafes of a rosé wine that was believed
to be at its peak, its consummateness, in Berne,
and indeed in that very room. Zizerser it was
called. It came in the open café pitchers with
the Federal mark at the top, naming the liquid
content. It was a gay, frivolous colour. It was
poured into fine glasses (they were one of the
many good things about that casino) from a
height of two feet or so, and miracle! it foamed!
It bubbled! It was full of a magic gas, that
wine, which melted out of it with every inch of
altitude it lost, so that when I took down a case
of it and proudly poured it lakeside, in Vevey,
it was merely a pink pretty drink, flat as flat. In
Berne it was champagne. We drank deep.
So did our driver, François, and later when
a frenzied-looking mountaineer waved back
our car, we drove on with nonchalance along a
cliff road above fabulous gorges, singing, until
finally a rock about half as big as our enormous
old Daimler sailed lazily down in front of us and
settled a few feet from the engine. We stopped
in time. Another mountaineer, with tiny stars
of gold in his ear lobes to make
him hear better, dropped into
sight from the pine forest. Go
back, go back, he cried. We are
blasting a new road. You might
have been killed. All right, all
right, we said. He lingered,
under the obvious spell of our
happiness. We talked. My father
introduced my mother as the
sweetest singer in Onawaiowa,
which she once was. My
husband breathed deeply, as
if in sleep. My friend looked
out over the plumy treetops
and sighed for a lost love.
François blinked in a surfeit of content. We
all sat about on felled branches and running
boards, and drank some superlative cognac
from an unlabelled bottle which my father
had bought secretly from a Vevey wine
merchant and brought along for just this
important moment.
A couple more boulders drifted down and
settled, dustily and noisily but without active
danger, within a few feet of us. The mountaineer
sang three or four songs of his canton. Then,
because of the Zizerser and mostly and mainly
because we were for that one moment in all
time a group of truly happy people, we began
to yodel. My father, as a smalltown editor, had
the edge on us: he had practised for years at
the more unbridled of the local service-club
luncheons and banquets. My husband and
even my friend hummed and buzzed, and I too
buzzed and hummed. And François? He really
yodelled, right along with the man from the
mountains. It was a fine thing.
Whatever we had eaten at lunch, trout I
think, went properly with the Zizerser, and
we were full and we were happy, beyond the
wine and the brandy, beyond the immediate
danger of blasted boulders and cascading
slides, beyond any feeling of foolishness. If we
had lunched on milk and pap, that noontime
in the casino, we still would have felt the
outer-world bliss that was ours, winy and full,
on the Oberland mountainside that summer
day. It happened more than ten years ago,
but if I should live a hundred and ten more I
would still feel the freedom of it. From An
Alphabet for Gourmets, with an introduction
by Ella Risbridger, published on November 10,
by Daunt Books, €11.42.
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