FOOD
THE FISHERMAN, BY JOHN KINDNESS; WWW.THEMOLESWORTHGALLERY.COM.
Fishful
Thinking
Trish Deseine gets in the swim of things
A
s I head happily indoors this autumn, craving more than ever the cosiness of a
warm kitchen, Im trying to switch up my non-meat protein intake to include
more fish but without exploding my already dwindling food budget. For years,
I would buy my haul from markets in or near Paris, supplied either directly from
Normandy boats or via the massive machine that is international wholesale
market, Rungis, the second largest in the world. It was always spanking fresh, or in the case of
some seafood items, still alive, and I never had to do very much to it. Simple grilling, steaming
or roasting with some subtle citrus or aromatic flavours, good salt, olive oil or butter was always
enough. In French home and bistro cooking, a relatively plain hunk of fish protein, like meat,
is usually central to a dish. Its raw freshness is key to the success of its cooked texture and
therefore, the recipe, and as long as you get the timing right, its hard to go wrong.
But since Ive been living in the more remote region of la Sarthe, procuring decent, reasonably
priced fish has been much more problematic. Whole fish are scarce on fishmongers market
displays, and the choice often limited. And as for the supermarkets, vac-packed pieces are
invariably woolly and, infuriatingly, slightly salted, just one notch up from sodden frozen
versions (Id rather just have a boiled egg, thanks). Increasingly, Ive been obliged to relegate a
dishs fishy role from diva to choir member.
This has been fun! It has regularly taken me away from à la minute classic French recipes and
into North African, Eastern Mediterranean, Spanish and Portuguese cuisines where fish and
seafood merge and meld with other textures and tastes, adding heft and umami just like slowcooked meat would do, only faster. Moving into an energy-conscious winter, sun-filled, nutrientdense, fish-forward recipes prep easily, cook quickly and are bursting with rich flavours.
I draw the line, as ever, at multi-step, fiddly weekend project dishes such as bouillabaisse,
where the integrity of original, local components is absolutely vital. Its no good tweaking or
using shortcuts if you do not have access to poissons de roche for the famous fish broth, or
the correct type of fresh octopus to stuff rich Languedocien
pies. Instead, I have embraced salted cod, which feels to me
like the foodstuff of the moment. Not meat, cheap and plentiful,
easy to store, full of vitamins and, magically, swelling to three
times its size once properly soaked, it is a beautifully versatile
ingredient. For me, perhaps the best thing about salt cod is
how wonderful it is cooked alongside potatoes. Think French
brandade de morue, (a sort of garlicky, creamy, fishy mash if
you do not yet know and love it) or salt cod and potato fritters
from the Caribbean and Portugal, where salt cod is the name
and main ingredient of several of their national dishes.
The grilled, dark flesh of fresh tuna is of course a great
natural replacement for a sirloin steak, but I also love how
it holds up to an hour or sos casserole simmer, jiggling along with tomatoes, peppers, wine
and feisty Basque spice in thon à la Basquaise. Portugal also gives us the wonderful arroz de
marisco, paellas more chilled-out cousin, a brilliantly thrifty yet festive rice dish, which uses
the robustly flavoured cooking juices of prawns, clams and mussels to infuse the rice. The result
is a much looser, brinier base think risotto rather than more stodgy paella and here, you can
tweak the broth or the seafood content to your hearts content. I like to make things simpler with
store-bought fish stock rather than boiling prawn shells, and by leaving out clams, for example.
But I do love adding some fresh crabmeat and samphire to top, when I can get hold of them.
For a chic winter starter that wont break the bank, I make the most of mussels intense flavour
by steaming free their wine-soaked juices and then blitzing them (shelled!) into creamy soup,
gently spiced with saffron and a hint of cumin. And an easy, economical way to cook cheaper
white fish fillets haddock, whiting, tilapia is in a 1970s retro terrine, laced with cream,
eggs, tomatoes and other vegetables, and served cold with a herb mousseline or warm with an
indulgent hollandaise. @TrishDeseine @trishdeseineencore
FISH-FORWARD
RECIPES PREP
EASILY, COOK
QUICKLY AND ARE
BURSTING WITH
RICH FLAVOURS ...
60 October 2022 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE
FISH TAGINE WITH PRESERVED LEMONS
This is a perfect example of how we can cut cooking times
using fish rather than meat as most of the flavour action will
happen in the fridge, at the marinating stage. You can leave
out the potatoes, and/or bump up the vegetable content with a
mix of carrots, courgettes and peppers. The preserved lemons
give beautifully aromatic notes. Adjust the chilli heat as you like:
I find a gentle background best, so it does not overpower the
rest of the flavours.
For 6
4 hours marinating
30 minutes cooking
If you have an ovenproof (non varnished/patterned) tagine dish,
its time has come! Otherwise use a heavy-bottomed pan with a
snug lid on the hob, or a clay oven dish and lid in the oven.
800g cod fillets (or hake, or other firm white fish)
600g waxy potatoes
150g pitted green olives
2 cloves garlic, peeled, crushed into a paste
3 onions
Juice of 2 lemons
1 preserved lemon, pips and pith removed, chopped
23 tsp Moroccan spice mix or a mix of ground cumin, ginger,
coriander and curcuma
5 tbsp olive oil
Pinch of chilli pepper of your choice
Lemon, flat leaf parsley and coriander to garnish
1. To make the marinade, peel and crush the garlic into a paste.
Mix the lemon juice with the garlic, pepper, spices, 4 tbsp olive
oil, chilli and a little salt. Marinate the fish in this mixture in a
Pyrex dish covered with film. Place in the fridge for 4 hours.
2. Heat the oven to 165 oC (if not cooking on the hob).
3. Peel and chop the potatoes and onions. Heat the remaining oil
in a pan and sauté the onions for a few minutes until browned.
4. Remove the fish from the marinade and reserve the marinade.
5. Add the olives, preserved lemon and potatoes to the pan,
drizzle with the marinade juices and cook for a few minutes on
low heat, to let the ingredients and flavours mingle.
6. Now add the fish, stir once or twice, carefully leaving the fish
in chunks, then add water to barely halfway up the level of the
ingredients.
7. Cover the pan, and cook in the oven or simmer/steam for 25
minutes over a low heat, stirring and checking a couple of times.
8. Check the seasoning and serve hot, garnished with lemon
wedges, coriander and parsley.
DOING NOTHING IS GOOD FOR YOU! / DAILY JOY AT YOUR DESK / FOUNDATION-FREE FOR BARE-FACED CHIC / DOG-FRIENDLY GETAWAYS MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2022 with THE IRISH TIMES the Look Business again ... Its time to Mens Style dressing for work ww w e .th glo ss. ie + Autumn evenings: food, wine and bo
CONTENTS IN THIS ISSUE THE GLOSS MONTHLY REMINDER SIGN UP to receive a monthly reminder by email when THE GLOSS is out so that you never miss an issue. Simply register your details on WWW.THEGLOSS.IE. GO ALL IN TO GO ALL OUT Look The Business again PU B LI S H E R JANE MC DONNELL EDITOR SARAH
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