FOOD
Nothing
Fancy
Trish Deseine says goodbye for good to over-fussy food
E
merging from a seemingly endless winter, its only now that the true impact of
the last three years is really hitting home. Theres a reckoning with the enormity
of it all, alongside a palpable brightness and determined optimism. Like so
many in the creative industries, I saw my business too new to benefit from
any government assistance disintegrate almost overnight, and other sides
severely disrupted for a good two years. Through it all, my GLOSS column was a pillar! A
more than welcome monthly look on the bright side through good food, and a connection to
home. In a world where so many were much worse off, and where my children were suffering,
chins (yes, now definitely plural thanks, lockdowns) were kept up and glasses half full. At
last, the gnawing, debilitating anxiety of material insecurity is easing, the kids are alright and,
miraculously, I still get to do the job I love more than anything.
But theres no escaping the drastically changed culinary landscape. Prices are still soaring,
with no end in sight for the moment. The price of all food has increased on average by a
whopping 14 per cent in France since 2021, with staples such as flour (up twelve per cent) butter
and cream (up 18 per cent) sugar (up 13 per cent) and oil (up 20 per cent) making a much bigger
dent in the monthly budget. Vegetables have not escaped either, with a 15 per cent rise, and if
wine has come off relatively easy with a mere eight per cent increase, meat prices have had the
most spectacular hike of 29 per cent!
Eating out in those restaurants which have managed to survive, when its not for work, is a
pretty rare treat, made even more special by that rareness, and a much friendlier ambiance in
every dining room. Everyone smiles and says bonjour to everyone in my part of France, and in
those fleeting moments, theres a sort of subliminal bonding, a tacit recognition and delight
that we have all been through some tough times, and
have made it to the other side to this delicious food in
front of us. Its no wonder that the stiff edifice of fine
dining is finally crumbling when our desire for warm,
meaningful connection through food has never been
stronger. Were tired of over-formal, complex plating
and the regimented timing of what should be a relaxed
occasion. Michelin star collecting is no longer an
acceptable status symbol when we can no longer ignore
how some kitchens run their operations. And I say some,
because there are plenty still out there, quietly putting
diners first supposedly the whole point, yet often
forgotten when chefs egos take over where everyone is
properly paid and treated, and the experience both sides
of the kitchen is a joyous one.
Those local restaurants are the precious ones, with sharp, tight menus, a soul, and proper
understanding of hospitality such as Du Peps in Nogent le Rotrou, near me, owned and
operated by women, where you feel like you are on a sunny beach with your best friends, even
though its rainy dead of winter outside and you know no-one. Or a super-chic yet noisy natural
wine temple like Oiseau-Oiseau, peppered with local artists work and warmed by a woodburner.
Now that making do with less and living sustainably have become the norm, and neominimalism is swiftly becoming an art form, our culinary aspirations at home can at last take
a breather. It is time to care even less about plated performances, leave those to chefs who will
make your well-earned night out feel really special. Im not saying go the full pot-luck on your
guests, but with remote working, isnt asking a couple of them to whip up a simple pudding
between Zooms a real possibility? If you havent already, its time to invest in a good Dutch oven.
A Le Creuset, or a Staub, in the brightest of colours. Go easy on the meat, hard on vegetables,
spices, ferments and legumes and let the pot do all the work even better if you have switched to
induction. Then bring it to your pretty table (some nice touches are non-negotiable) and join
the party. @TrishDeseine @trishdeseineencore
WERE TIRED OF
OVER-FORMAL,
COMPLEX PLATING
AND THE REGIMENTED
TIMING OF WHAT
SHOULD BE A
RELAXED OCCASION.
DARK MUSCOVADO BROWNIES
WITH CHOCOLATE SALTED FUDGE SAUCE
The addition of an unrefined sugar brings lots of flavour and
a little more virtue to this decadent dessert. Its an easy one
to bring to an informal March lunch or dinner party and a
great one to make ahead if you are doing the entertaining.
Make it super-chic with some Scúp espresso gelato or a
sharp plain frozen yoghurt.
DARK MUSCOVADO BROWNIES
10 minutes preparation
30 minutes cooking
250g dark muscovado sugar
200g semi-salted butter
350g good dark chocolate, chopped
3 eggs
50g self-raising flour
Prepare
1. Heat the oven to 190C. Butter and line a 20cm square brownie tin.
2. Melt the butter and chocolate in a bain-marie or in the
microwave. Remove from the heat as soon as they are melted and
stir. In the bowl of your mixer or with an electric mixer, whisk the
eggs until they become pale and frothy. Add the sugar and beat
everything together.
3. Add the chocolate and melted butter with a spatula, then pour
the flour and mix to a smooth batter.
4. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and bake for about
30 minutes. The top should be cracked, and the centre still a
little wobbly.
5. Remove from the oven, allow to cool, cut into squares and serve.
SALTED CHOCOLATE FUDGE SAUCE
For 4
5 minutes preparation
50g semi-salted butter
170ml fresh whipping cream
75g dark muscovado sugar
150g good dark chocolate
Prepare
1. Put all the ingredients in a saucepan and heat gently. Stir
occasionally, until you obtain a shiny, creamy sauce. Serve warm.
THE GLOSS MAGAZINE March 2023 57
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