WINE
Kiwi
Fruits
Try New Zealand Chardonnay, says Julie Dupouy
B
y March, the natural world around us has fully awoken from its winter
slumber. In the northern hemisphere, early March marks the start of
a new cycle in the vineyard with the vines pulse gently flickering back
to life. This new flow of energy will soon be followed by budbreak, and
the years cycle is safely under way. Each autumn, if Mother Nature has
been kind, we get to enjoy the fruits of her wonder.
For countries in the southern hemisphere, March sits at the end of the vines cycle
and harvests are currently in full swing. Diversity across the wine regions of the
southern hemisphere is vast and many exciting things are happening.
Yet, I do have a special soft spot for New Zealand. I was fortunate to spend three
weeks there in 2017, touring all the main regions. I came back smitten and filled with
enthusiasm for all things kiwi. It is an incredibly special country. Anybody who has
visited New Zealand will understand what I mean when I say that the colours there
seem brighter, the personalities bigger and the energy for life greater. The dialled-up
quality I had perceived in their wines is really just another expression of life in this
truly beautiful place.
New Zealand is the newest comer to wine production in the New World. The first
vines were planted in KeriKeri, in Northland,
in 1819, by missionary Samuel Marsden.
However, it took New Zealand over 150 years
for its wine industry to find stability and gain
international recognition. It is quite incredible
to think that Marlborough, one of the bestknown wine regions in the world, had its
first modern commercial vineyard planted as
recently as 1973. Marlborough represents 70
per cent of New Zealands total plantings with
approximately 29,000 hectares, which yields
over 75 per cent of all the wine New Zealand
produces.
Over the last 40 years, New Zealand has
established itself among the global leaders in
greener, highly ethical viticulture. As of 2022,
over 96 per cent of the total vineyard area in the country was certified sustainable and
ten per cent of New Zealand wineries were certified fully organic.
The golden goose in New Zealand is of course Sauvignon Blanc. The best classic
Sauvignons have seduced the world with their exuberant fruitiness that expresses
themselves through notes of passionfruit, gooseberry and lime, complemented by
their bright, crisp, and saline characters.
IN THE LAST 40
YEARS, NEW ZEALAND
HAS ESTABLISHED
ITSELF AMONG THE
GLOBAL LEADERS IN
GREENER, HIGHLY
ETHICAL VITICULTURE.
Pinot Noir plays the lead supporting role, with in my opinion, the most exciting
examples being produced in Central Otago, the southernmost commercial vineyard
in the world which sits on the 45th parallel south. The Pinots there have proven multifaceted, from light and fragrant to powerful, smooth and mineral.
Chardonnay makes up the kiwi triumvirate with 3,200 hectares, far behind
Sauvignon Blanc and still well behind Pinot Noir. Despite its place among the Big
Three, I feel that NZ Chardonnay is still waiting for its moment in the sun.
For years, Chardonnay has been a great divider of taste and opinion and in recent
times, due to consumer demand for more judicious oak use, it has been enjoying
an inevitable comeback. Whether you are enjoying the early stages of your wine
discovery journey or are an afficionado looking to re-bond with the grape, New
Zealand Chardonnay is worth a second and third look.
It literally leaves no boxes unticked bright, healthy fruit, vibrant acidity, beautiful
and classy aromatic profiles, salinity, structure, texture and great minerality. Most are
supported by well-judged oak use but typically have enough fruit substance to absorb
the oak seasoning gracefully and fortunately stay the right side of the clichéd creamy
and buttery wines of the 1990s, which were often overwhelmed with vanilla and toffee
aromas from the wood.
The most memorable Chardonnay wines I tasted come from the North Canterbury
region which is located in the heart of the South Island, just outside Christchurch.
North Canterbury is renowned for its limestone soils which are unique to the region
and produce wines with great purity.
Hawkes Bay, more specifically the Gimblett Gravels area, is famous for its red wines
but also produces stellar Chardonnay. The first vines were planted in the 1980s, on the
old bed of the Ngaruroro River which changed course in 1867. I love the dark, pebbly
minerality common to the wines produced there and I particularly enjoy the savoury
layer it contributes to the Chardonnay.
Auckland, Waiheke Island, Nelson and Central Otago also produce excellent
Chardonnay and have attracted interest and investment from some very talented
and acclaimed wine producers. I have put together a selection of some of the best
Chardonnay I have tasted from New Zealand available in the Irish market. Enjoy
them in larger glasses to allow them open and really shine, either on their own or as a
luxurious and versatile option on the dinner table. @julie_dupouy
NEW ZEALAND CHARDONNAY
Chardonnay,
Mates Vineyard,
Kumeu River,
Auckland, 65;
www.whelehans
wines.ie.
Chardonnay, Gimblett
Gravels, Trinity Hill,
Hawkes Bay, 36.95;
www.thecorkscrew.ie.
56 March 2023 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE
Chardonnay,
Pyramid Valley, North
Canterbury, 37;
www.curiouswines.ie.
Chardonnay, Rosies
Block, Neudorf,
Nelson, 30;
www.jnwine.com.
Chardonnay,
Valhala, Man OWar,
Waiheke Island, 32.95;
www.obrienswine.ie.
Chardonnay,
Cloudy Bay,
Marlborough, 45;
www.wineonline.ie.
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