NewsReview 5
THE IRISH TIMES
Saturday, September 2 , 2017
Are Strategic Development Zones, the model for a
planned new town in West Dublin, the answer
to the capitals housing shortage
Olivia Kelly
DublinCorrespondent
S
hannon in Co Clare was for decades the States only modern
planned town. Developed
throughout the 1970s alongside
Shannon Airport and the Shannon Free Zone industrial estate, it finally
got its town status in 1982.
But the idea of the planned new town
didnt really catch on. While new towns
had proliferated in Britain after the second
World War, Ireland favoured a more laissez-faire approach to residential development; new estates were tacked on to existing small towns and villages, and large new
suburbs were created in Dublin and its surrounding counties.
The planned town concept didnt
emerge again until the start of this century
with the advent of strategic development
zones or SDZs in planning-speak.
SDZs were originally intended for
large-scale office or tech-industry developments. The hope was that more multinationals would be coaxed to Ireland if planning was quicker. However, in 2000 economist Peter Bacon, in the third of his reports
on the housing market, suggested SDZs
could have a role in boosting housing supply and calming the then rapidly-heating
housing market. The system dictated that
everything needed for a new town would
be planned up front; the number and type
of homes, schools, shops, sports and community facilities, transport services and
other infrastructure.
The towns would be developed in phases, with developers having to complete the
facilities required in each phase before
they could move to the next tranche of
housing.
Largeschemes
The quid pro quo was that developers
would secure planning decisions at a far
faster rate. At the time decisions on large
schemes took more than a year. Almost
every local authority decision on a
large-scale housing application was appealed to Bord Pleanála, and many were rejected in the end.
Once a SDZ was approved by a local authority it could be appealed to Bord Pleanála, but if it was passed by the board there
could be no further appeal mechanism.
Any landowner whose plans were in line
with the SDZ would get permission to develop, generally within two months of lodging their application.
Local authorities were sent to scope out
suitable sites, places with good transport
links that could support a large population, and that could stand alone without
overwhelming an existing town.
South Dublin County Council was the
first of the mark with a development in Adamstown in west Dublin. In 2001 the government designated 220 hectares for the
development of a town of more than
10,000 homes. In September 2003, the
States first SDZ was approved by Bord
Pleanála. By 2006 the first homes had
been occupied. Schools and a train station
followed.
Around 7km north of Adamstown, Fingal County Council was pursuing another
zone for 3,000 homes on an 80-hectare
site at Hansfield, west of Blanchardstown.
This smaller development took longer and
was approved by Bord Pleanála in 2006. A
train station opened and schools were
built.
Localareaplan
Also in 2006, South Dublin County Council put forward plans for an even more ambitious SDZ at Clonburris to the east of Adamstown. This zone of 11,500 homes
would be combined with a local area plan
for 3,500 on neighbouring lands to form a
new high density eco-district.
In 2008, as the economic crash loomed,
Bord Pleanála approved the Clonburris
SDZ. The subsequent collapse of the property market put these plans in disarray. In
Adamstown just over 1,000 homes were
built. Not many more than 100 materialised in Hansfield. None transpired in Clonburris.
As was the case with almost every site in
the State, the SDZ projects made no progress through the recession. However, Niall Cussen, principal planning adviser with
the Department of Housing, says these
were not wasted years.
The advantage was we had time to do
the preparatory work to get the sites ready
for housing. Imagine trying to tackle the
housing crisis today without having done
the preparation for docklands, for Adamstown, for Cherrywood SDZs. Imagine if we
were starting from scratch with the challenge of doubling housing output across
dozens of small sites.
Two or three years ago
every one of those sites
would have been
abandoned. In another
two or three years it
will all be completed
Recovery
Development showed its first signs of recovery after the crash with the docklands
SDZ a 66-hectare site spanning the Liffey
and including the Grand Canal south of
the river and the North Lotts area on the
north side. The council sought the SDZ designation following the transfer of responsibility for the area from the Dublin Docklands Development Authority (DDDA).
Two-thirds of the area had already been developed under the DDDA, but many buildings, including the former Anglo Irish
Bank headquarters, were unfinished.
Within the 66 hectares about 22 hectares were available for development. Under the plan about 2,600 new homes and
300-350sq m of commercial space could
be built. The pace of development in that
district has been staggering, Cussen
says, with permissions already granted for
almost all of the available land and most
sites under construction.
Two or three years ago every one of
those sites would have been abandoned. In
another two or three years it will all be completed.
The SDZ has overseen the development
of the shell of the Anglo building as the
new headquarters of the Central Bank,
and the construction of what will be Dublins tallest office and residential buildings,
the 73m Exo office block in the Point Village and the 79m Capital Dock apartment
and office complex at Sir John Rogersons
Quay. The pace of change was possible because most the lands had gone into receivership, and the National Assets Management Agency (Nama) was able to step in.
Singleentity
Jim Keogan, who retired as head of planning with Dublin City Council last year and
now works in Cork with planning consultants McCutcheon Halley, says this was a
crucial factor in the success of the SDZ.
With Nama in there you were effectively dealing with a single entity. SDZs work
best where you dont have fragmentation
of land ownership, where there is engagement with and buy-in by land owners. Otherwise they will not be developed.
This could explain the slow pace of the
Cherrywood SDZ where there are around
10 owners. The scheme for more than
8,000 homes on 360 hectares was approved in the same year as docklands SDZ,
but the first application for homes, 242
apartments and 80 houses by William Neville & Sons, was made only in August this
year.
Hines, the largest developer on the
scene, has yet to submit an application for
housing.
There had to be agreement between
the 10 landowners on how common infrastructure would be funded, and that was
only approved by the council in June of this
year, says Hines Irelands senior managing director Brian Moran.
Hines will lodge its first residential application in the next month, says Moran, for
the town-centre development, which will
have 1,300 apartments as well as a hotel,
shops, offices and leisure facilities. However, he said this did not mean nothing had
been happening on the site. We are currently building 5.6km of roads and utilities
and 83 acres of parks, which are due to be
finished by next spring.
Clonburris
The two newest SDZs are at Poolbeg and
Clonburris the latter announced in recent days. Poolbeg is a step ahead of Clonburris and is likely to come before Bord
Pleanála before the end of this year. The
plan for 34 hectares at the citys east end
centres on the former Irish Glass Bottle
site and Fabrizia lands, which are under
the control of Nama-funded receivers.
Again, because of the Nama involvement I would think Poolbeg has all the hallmarks of repeating the success of the dock-
M2
Dublin
Airport
M1
DublinsStrategicDevelopmentZones
M50
M3
M4
Adamstown
Main: Part of the 200 homes that are
currently under construction in
Adamstown, Co. Dublin; left: the unused
Kishogue Train station which was built in
anticipation of future development, near
Adamstown and Clonburris; bottom left:
Cherrywood, Co Dublin as diggers start
shaping the infrastructure. PHOTOGRAPHS:
ENDA ODOWD/ALAN BETSON / CYRIL BYRNE
Hansfield
Grangegorman
M50
HOWDOYOU
BUILDANEW
TOWNIN
DUBLIN?
The docklands and Cherrywood SDZs
were both confirmed by Bord Pleanála in
2014.
Dublin City Council secured its first
SDZ, for the development of the DITs new
campus at Grangegorman in Dublin, in
2012.
Docklands
Clonburris
Poolbeg
M50
Cherrywood
er post-crash. To address this issue in Adamstown the council had to return to Bord
Pleanála to seek lower densities, a process
that took more than a year and a half.
In the case of two large city council local
area plan (LAP) areas Clongriffin, where
12,000 homes were planned at the north
fringe of the city, and Pelletstown, where
4,000 homes were planned between Ashtown and Cabra along the Royal Canal
the council was able to simply implement
new Government policy, which allowed
lower densities.
These two areas were the first significant housing sites to emerge from the
crash, and continue to see a steady stream
of applications.
Weve a number of different sites on
the go, says Shane Daly, commercial director of Gannon Homes, which is building in Clongriffin.
Goodrelationship
He says SDZs have a value, but it is possible to develop a properly planned town
without them. Gannon homes honoured
our commitment to put in the infrastructure in advance of the homes. Thought has
gone into how people live, work and play.
Its achieved through having a good relationship between the developer, the architects and the council.
A new system whereby applications for
more than 100 homes can be made directly
to Bord Pleanála also means that planning
decisions, while not as rapid as in an SDZ
area, can be delivered more quickly than
previously. President of the Irish Planning
Institute Deirdre Fallon says while SDZa
were greatly hampered by the economic
circumstances of recent years, more could
be done to smooth out some of the delays
in their implementation.
The biggest issue is the resources given
to the implementation of SDZs, particularly when a local authority is dealing with a
multiplicity of landowners and a complicated site.
Hubert Fitzpatrick, director of housing
and planning with the Construction Industry Federation, says the SDZ model has
great potential to increase the housing supply but lessons need to be learned from the
existing schemes if they are to be used on
future sites.
lands SDZ, Cussen says.
The previous SDZ for Clonburris was revoked after no development took place,
and a new, more modest plan involves
8,000 homes at lower densities than previously planned.
Progress has been made in Adamstown,
with more than 1,400 homes built, 200
houses under construction and planning
permission for 800 more expected to be approved by the end of the year.
At Hansfield, 328 homes have been
built, 236 are under construction and another 650 have planning permission, with
new applications recently lodged for 150
more, according to Fingal County Council.
Hampered
The development of the SDZ sites was severely hampered by the crash, but they are
progressing now. Are they the way forward for large developments in housing-crisis Ireland?
With an SDZ you can direct resources
to the maximum effect, but it is not a
light-touch process. To do all forward planning through SDZs would be very
time-consuming, Cussen says.
The commitment required by the local
authority in terms of staff and time is considerable, Keogan says, and the schemes
are by their nature prescriptive.
Given that SDZs provide certainty,
they are not as flexible as a local area plan
to change, to reflect changed circumstances. Making changes to an SDZ is a cumbersome and time-consuming process.
Local area plans are like smaller versions of a city or county development plan.
They also set out heights, scales and types
of development for an area, but, unlike the
SDZ, applications go through the normal
planning procedures.
The difference between the schemes
was illustrated when the viability of apartment construction appeared not to recov-
Flexibility
The SDZs are very rigid and overprescriptive when it comes to the phasing of infrastructure. We need to ensure that they
have the necessary flexibility to deal with
changing circumstances, particularly
when there are large sites with lots of developers and a long lead-in time.
The objective is to fast-track development, so there needs to be a mechanism to
adjust the plans in conjunction with the local authorities. We also need to ensure the
infrastructure requirement is not so high
that it creates viability difficulties and development is made prohibitive.
Lessons have been learned from the earlier years of the SDZs, Cussen said.
We are learning from previous planning schemes what is and what is not economic to develop.
In the current circumstances some of
the densities and the scale of the development ambitions planned for Clonburris
for 2008 will be by todays parameters unrealistic, but I have every confidence the local authority will settle on a good planning
framework for Clonburris.
The main Clonburris developer, Cairn
Homes, says it would like to begin the project early next year, but the SDZ is unlikely
to be in place before late 2018. The new
town at Clonburris would be built over 10
to 15 years.
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TRAVEL CHECK-IN JoLinehan REIMAGINED ROOMS London The Town Hall Hotel, at the centre of Bethnal Green, is named after its former life. It opened in 1910; today the hotel offers exquisite dining experiences and palatial art deco-inspired suites. townhallhotel.com Morzine VIP Skis new penthouses w
TRAVEL A thrifty Iceland trip Its a challenge to spend three days in one of the worlds most expensive cities on a budget of 400, but we still have 50 to spare, writes ER Murray A s I land in one of the priciest cities in the world reportedly 21 per cent more expensive than New York I fail at th
ing, so its the best time to relax with an Icelandic beer or two. On Austurstraeti Street there are several lively bars with outdoor tables and happy hours from 5pm until 7pm and you can then move on to the old harbour, where offers stretch until 9pm. Whatever season you visit, night-time walks alon
TRAVEL Into the great wide open The Rabari migrate huge distances across India with their animals, Kate Eshelby got a fascinating insight into their unique lives T he animals are returning on a biblical scale, flooding into this green expanse, like grains of sand rushing into an hourglass. Water
ing and printing some of Indias finest textiles. Kuldip takes me to visit several of these cottage industries, many of which continue to use natural dyes. First stop is Bhujodi, a village just outside Bhuj, full of hand-woven shawls, scarves and blankets in bright pinks, greens and purples. The foll
CYCLE SERIES Kerry at its best and most scenic T With little traffic this route is not to be missed, write Donnacha Clifford, David Elton he Gap of Dunloe and the Black Valley are among the among most renowned areas for tourists in Kerry, and with good reason. The glacial landscape appears timel
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Japan: Land of the rising sun 13 days from only €4,449pp Selected departures from May to October 2018 Japan - an ancient culture of emperors, fierce shoguns, samurais and brutal martial arts. Yet its also a place of gentle geishas, colourful kimonos, exquisite garden design and Zen Buddhism. How did
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TRAVEL JOAN SCALES Travel advice on... finding the right spa About20years agowhen hotels began addingspasto theirfacilities it seemedlike itwouldjust be afad. Butnowthere ishardly ahotel aroundthe countrywithoutsome formof spafacilities.One Irish spa website lists192propertiesaround thecountry, ra
From Lapland Magical trips to Lapland 1 to 5 Day Packages Prices starting at €630* www.visitsanta.ie (01) 241 2385 *Prices per child, from €660 per adult helpers@visitsanta.ie to Wonder Land Family Trips to Orlando from €699 per person www.gohop.ie (01) 241 2305 info@gohop.ie
TV&RADIO FILMSOFTHEWEEK GoldenEye Sunday,RTÉ2,6.05pm Pierce Brosnan (above right) makes his debut as British secret agent James Bond in one of the long-running franchises best entries. The plot is very loosely based on Ian Flemings novel Moonraker, and sees 007 embark on yet another globe-trotting
RADIOCHOICE SATURDAY The Teatro Regio in Turin hosts a barnstorming production of Bizets Carmen, starring Anna Caterina Antonacci in the title role. Opera Night(RTÉ Lyric FM, 7pm). SUNDAY AedínGormleysSundayMatinee (RTÉ Lyric FM, 1pm) features a concert from the Victoria Hall in Geneva where the R
SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 2 MUSICALSHOWCASEElectricPicnic 2017RTÉ2,8pmEoghan McDermott and Blathnaid Treacy introduce highlights from the event, including gigs by those appearing on the main stage. Soraiya Ryan and some special guests are also on hand to report from the picnic area itself. RTÉ ONE RTÉ2
NEWSERIESTheXFactorTV3,8pm Dermot OLeary takes charge of another run of the popular talent show. Judges Simon Cowell, Louis Walsh, Nicole Scherzinger and Sharon Osbourne also return, and get things under way by auditioning the first batch of hopefuls. BBC TWO 3e CHANNEL 4 6.45 The NFL Show R S 8
SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 3 NEWSERIESAnRílDealTG4,8.15pm Judges Breandán de Gallaí, Sibéal Davitt and Roy Galvin are back for a second run of the celebrity dance competition. Stay tuned for more musical shenanigans at 9.30pm when Daithí Ó Sé introduces coverage of Celtic Connections. RTÉ ONE RTÉ2 TV3 TG
LASTINSERIESStrikeTheCuckoos CallingBBCOne,9pmThe search for the truth about Lula Landrys sudden death takes an intriguing turn, putting Strike and Robins lives in danger in the process as they delve into the pasts of the models adoptive and biological families. BBC TWO 3e CHANNEL 4 6.00 The Ins
MONDAY SEPTEMBER 4 NEWDOCUMENTARYIrelandsHealth DivideRTÉOne,9.35pmDr Eva Orsmond investigates the impact that your socioeconomic standing can have on the length of your life, revealing in the process that those struggling to make ends meet live on average six years less than the wealthy. RTÉ ONE
SHORTDRAMAShortscreenRTÉ2, 12.15amStephen Bradys compelling tale focuses on Richard, who is living a nightmarish existence in a rundown apartment complex in inner-city Dublin. His one ray of light is his girlfriend Karen, but is he right to rely on her devotion? BBC TWO 3e CHANNEL 4 6.00 Flog It
TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 5 NEWDOCUMENTARYTheFarthest RTÉOne,10.15pmA fascinating insight into the journey of Voyager, the tiny spaceship that is currently around 12 billion miles from Earth. Theres also a chance to hear from the remarkable scientists who designed and built the craft. RTÉ ONE RTÉ2 TV3
NEWSERIESDoctorFosterBBCOne,9pm Suranne Jones returns as the titular character, and the story picks up with her two years after the events of the previous series. Shes been living alone since the departure of her husband, but hes about to make a dramatic reappearance... BBC TWO 3e CHANNEL 4 6.00
WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 6 NEWSERIESCelebrityOperation TransformationRTÉOne,9.35pm X Factor singer Mary Byrne, beauty expert Triona McCarthy, chef Gary OHanlon, social media influencer James Patrice and singer Kayleigh Cullinan are the stars taking part in the programme. RTÉ ONE RTÉ2 TV3 TG4 BBC ON
NEWSERIESBackChannel4,10pm David Mitchell and Robert Webb team up once again, this time ditching their Peep Show characters in favour of playing a would-be pub landlord and his long-lost former foster brother who enter into a battle of wits. Julia Deakin also stars. BBC TWO 3e CHANNEL 4 6.00 Flo
THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 7 NEWSERIESSúileLondainTG4,9.30pm Cameras follow the fortunes of six young Irish-speakers as they begin new lives in London. Their progress is charted during their first 12 months in the city, offering a unique insight into what it is to be an emigrant in the 21st century. RTÉ O
NEWSERIESFindMeaHomeRTÉOne, 8.30pmFilmed during the spring and summer of this year, the latest run charts the progress of more folk searching for somewhere to live, including first-time buyers who are shocked that a mortgage can cost less than paying rent. BBC TWO 3e CHANNEL 4 6.00 Flog It! Trad
FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 8 NEWSERIESGoggleboxChannel4,9pm The previous run only ended in June, but here we are again, preparing to watch people watching TV. Its a simple format, and one that has grown in popularity, making stars of its participants. Expect more hilarious opinions from this series. RTÉ ONE
SITCOMFUNComedyPlayhouse MrWinnerBBCOne,10.35pmSpencer Jones stars as hapless Leslie Winner, who always seems to be at the epicentre of impending disaster, so expect sparks to fly when he plans to propose to his girlfriend during an eventful trip to London. BBC TWO 3e CHANNEL 4 6.00 Flog It! Tra
RADIO NEWMUSICNovaSunday,RTÉLyricFM,8pm Composer Roger Doyle claims to have written Irelands first electronic opera, Heresy, which premiered at the Project Arts Centre in November 2016. Now theres a chance to hear it via this programme. SATURDAY RTÉRadio1FM:88.2-90.0;95.2MHz,LW: 252kHz.Newsontheho
CELEBRITYCHATTheJoeJackson TapesRevisitedMonday,RTÉRadio1,10pm Eartha Kitt was one of Jacksons first interviewees back in 1987, so he takes great delight in getting to listen to their extraordinarily candid chat all over again. TUESDAY Playlists.3.00Radio2Playlists:Great BritishSongbook.4.00Radio2P
ARTSROUND-UPCultureFileWeekly Friday,RTÉLyricFM,7.02pmLuke Clancy presents highlights from his daily cultural reports on Lorcan Murrays Classic Drive. Expect lots of interviews as well as music, media, art, technology and design news. THE IRISHTIMES THURSDAY HOMEDELIVERY SERVICE ANEWSPAPER TOYOUR
THEirishtimes.com/archive TIMES WE LIVED IN Play it again, Sam Published: November 4th, 1972. Photograph: Dermot OShea T o sing, or not to sing? That is the question. Especially when the conductor has a baton with a hook on the end of it. If you hit a wrong note he might fish you out of the back
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THE IRISH TIMES irishtimes.com Weekend Review Saturday,September2nd,2017 EditorConorGoodman Phone01-6758000 emailweekend@irishtimes.com Arts& Books Radioreview: MickHeaneyon a vintagePat Kenny performance. Page8 Eamon Dunphy ... ...talksfootball, politics,family andRoy Keanewith PatrickFreyne.Pa
2 NewsReview THE IRISH TIMES Saturday, September 2 , 2017 DUBLINSSQUATTERS: EMPTYHOUSESAREAWASTE One groups solution to the housing crisis is to move into vacant properties and develop their skipping skills Fiachradh McDermott I ts free space under your feet. You feel like youre in your own liv
NewsReview 3 THE IRISH TIMES Saturday, September 2 , 2017 IHAVEABUDDHIST VIEWOFTHINGS Eamon Dunphy football pundit, journalist and podcaster talks Roy Keane, family life, politics and official Ireland I stood at the dole queue with my father, and I remember how good people were humiliated by t
4 NewsReview THE IRISH TIMES Saturday, September 2 , 2017 Life Abroad Tokyo, Japan The threat keeps getting more serious Andrew McCarthy While North Koreas missile was 1,000km away from Tokyo, the threat is real, and few experts are willing to predict what will happen next I THERESTAURANTATTHE
NewsReview 5 THE IRISH TIMES Saturday, September 2 , 2017 Are Strategic Development Zones, the model for a planned new town in West Dublin, the answer to the capitals housing shortage Olivia Kelly DublinCorrespondent S hannon in Co Clare was for decades the States only modern planned town. Dev
6 Environment THE IRISH TIMES Saturday, September 2 , 2017 Another Life Michael Viney A glossy puddle of marmalade with a sting to close whole beaches P ulsing forward in glancing light beneath the waves, it holds a fiery glow at its heart as if out to give fair warning. Fiery, indeed, can be t
7 THE IRISH TIMES Saturday, September 2 , 2017 Arts &Books Ive been corrupted by pleasing people With his new series, Karl Ove Knausgaard, the accidentally bestselling Norwegian novelist, has discarded agony in favour of structure. He may be on to something Caroline ODonoghue I am sitting oppo
8 Arts&Books THE IRISH TIMES Saturday, September 2 , 2017 Culture Shock Gemma Tipton An English opinion about Ireland is as valid as an Irish one I n the United States, an artist paints a portrait of a dead black boy. At Imma, an art video looks at internment. Soon a mega-musical set in the Vie
Arts&Books 9 THE IRISH TIMES Saturday, September 2 , 2017 Like Brokeback Mountain, but with Yorkshire weather Francis Lees Gods Own Country feels like a career-launching film Donald Clarke L et us get the awkward question out of the way first. When Francis Lee conceived of Gods Own Country, a b
10 Arts&Books THE IRISH TIMES Saturday, September 2 , 2017 Bottle Man A young man has relationship problems. This is the eighth and final short story by writers from overseas living in Ireland, and by Irish writers who live or have lived abroad Nicole Flattery T he morning I moved into the bott
Arts&Books11 THE IRISH TIMES Saturday, September 2 , 2017 Striking across the sectarian divide An innocent abroad, with no irony filter NJ McGarrigle Beat: The True Story of a Suicide Bomb and a Heart Neil Hegarty By Rowan Somerville Struggle or Starve: Working-Class Unity in Belfasts 1932 Out
12 Arts&Books THE IRISH TIMES Saturday, September 2 , 2017 An impressive Indian homage to King Lear Sarah Gilmartin NewFiction We That Are Young By Preti Taneja Galley Beggar Press, £9.99 N othing will come of nothing, King Lear warns his soon-to-be outcast youngestdaughter Cordelia after she r
Arts&Books 13 THE IRISH TIMES Saturday, September 2 , 2017 Fragmented fairy tales and a death sentence Claire Hennessy YoungAdults I am a quick and boring little thing. Head down, hair neat, face low. Dont catch their eye. Thats sauce. And men will punish sauce. They call it love. Mixsharp femin
14 THE IRISH TIMES Saturday, September 2, 2017 ENTERTAINMENTS TOMMY SWARBRIGG PRESENTS In Association with Ashford Castle Hotel A GALA TRIBUTE TO ONE OF IRELANDS GREATEST EVER SONGWRITERS! A NIGHT TO REMEMBER You Raise Me uP 100 MILLION RECORDS SOLD & GUESTS STARRING The Songs and Stories o
15 THE IRISH TIMES Saturday, September 2, 2017 CONCERTS The Guardian Whats on Stage The Times The Telegraph The Stage Actors Touring Company and Royal Lyceum Theatre Edinburgh The Suppliant Women Sept 27Oct 1 Gaiety Theatre Tickets from €16 on sale now dublintheatrefestival.com +353 1 6
16 NewsReview THE IRISH TIMES Saturday, September 2 , 2017 The Week In case you missed it Donald Clarke In pictures Tropical Storm Harvey in Houston, Texas The great doner kebab rush of 1982 People walk down a flooded street as they evacuate their homes after flooding in Houston, Texas. PHOTO
HOT NEW HOTELS / WARDROBE UPDATES / KENNETH JAY LANE AT HOME / BEAUTY TRENDS / ROLE MODELS / BACK TO BLACK MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2017 with THE IR STAND UP & STAND OUT FASHION'S NEW MOOD FEARLESS, FABULOUS & FUN POWER PLAYERS CAITRIONA PERRY IN THE WHITE HOUSE VICTORIA BECKHAMS SECOND ACT JONATHAN
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CONTENTS INSIDE E THIS ISSUE STAND UP & STAND OUT PU B LI S H E R JAN E M C DO N N E LL E D I TO R SA RA H M C D O N N E LL S TYLE E D I TO R A I S LI N N C O F F E Y BEAUTY EDITOR SARA H HA LLI W E LL NEXT ISSUE ART EDITOR THURSDAY OCTOBER 5 L AU RA KE N N Y ASSISTANT EDITOR FEATURES SA
ER B M E T SEP ~ GLOSS IP PEARLS of fashion wisdom ... Rejecting RUSHING WOMAN Syndrome ... Counting LITTLE BLACK DRESSES ... and GETTING FIT at all costs ... A worked for interior designer NICKY HASLAM before setting up her company. No longer involved, she is a trustee with the lovely charity F
HUNTING & GATHERING 1 Channel theTrend 3 ISABEL MARANT 2 4 JASON LLOYD-EVANS 5 6 FIERCELY FEMINI NE ALL THINGS CONSIDERED ... Theres a new mood in fashion and its one of unbridled celebration of all things feminine. The steady slide into sportswear and trainers with everything is being sup
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ROCHAS FASHION 5 Navy Alexia cashmereblend coat, d1,295, at Louise Kennedy, 56 Merrion Square, Dublin 2. 6 THIS AUTUMN Do you want to know what to wear right now? Weve compiled a list of our hero pieces for AW17 12 September 2017 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE 1. A CASHMERE COAT. This season we are al
LOWDOWN HITTING THE HIGH STREET DRIES VAN NOTEN THE NEW PRIME The ageless generation (women of 40 and 50) hit the runways this season in place of SS17s octogenarians. When Belgian designer Dries Van Noten staged his 100th show in Paris, he sent a bevy of familiar faces down the catwalk: Amber Va
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LOWDOWN Channelling Queen Elizabeth II on holiday in Balmoral ... even makes models look dowdy. MISSION IMPOSSIBLE J CREW STELLA MC CARTNEY We all know how it goes; what was cool last season is, apparently, so uncool this season. How to keep up? Dont. Trending items are also more expensive than
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LOWDOWN 1 RETURN TO THE SILVER SCREEN SAINT LAURENT ALL ABOUT YVES Two new museums are set to open this autumn in honour of designer Yves Saint Laurent. The first will be in Paris, in Saint Laurents couture house (5 avenue Marceau); the second in Marrakech, opposite Jardin Majorelle. Designed b
ISABEL MARANT LOWDOWN ETITI ON WEAR IT WELL With the return to school and the end of summer, September always feels like the start of a new year. This month, make it your resolution to get your timekeeping in check with a new watch by Irish brand Ansley Watch Co, founded in 2013 by Arthur and E
08/17 Kildare Village 2017 *on the recommended retail price. New arrivals Discover more than 95 boutiques with savings of up to 60%*. Find your fabulous. AllSaints Anya Hindmarch Aquascutum Armani Asics Barbour Bedeck Boss Hugo Boss Brooks Brothers Calvin Klein Jeans Calvin Klein Underwea
MOODBOARD Im soliloquising Molly Bloom: Even out of the ditches primroses and violets. 3 THE DARKEST NIGHTS PRODUCE THE BRIGHTEST STARS. 5 JOHN GREEN Im identifying with Cyndi Laupers A Memoir: from overcoming psoriasis and voice loss to hit musical Kinky Boots. 6 4 1 IF YOURE GOING THROUGH
Editor Laura Brown at Acnes AW17 show. FASHION MICHAEL KORS Wardrobe BY AISLINN COFFEY NEED TO KNOW: ALEXANDRA GOLOVANOFF CAMEL COATS 24 September 2017 THE GLOSS MAGAZINE How do you make an effort without pulling the same go-to dress out of your wardrobe? Fancy pants are your golden ticket
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FASHION ISABEL MARANT STAND UP & STAND OUT Chanel space centre at the Chanel AW17 show. Inter-galactic, irridescent metallics and cosmic embellishments are set to soar. Get on board with sparkle; try a metallic jacket, glittery top even sparkly silver socks. Silver sequin top, Sandy Liang, at Har
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FASHION Amber Valletta wearing Mulberry. N O 21 D IO R ST E LL A M C ALTUZARRA C A R TN EY LO U IS V U IT TO N ALTUZARRA TO RY B U R C H Left: Black zipdetail leather boots, Prada. Right: Black lace-up leather boots, Christian Louboutin; both www.net-aporter.com. INDesign
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SOCIAL LIFE Clockwise from left: Kate Macklin; a dinner party at her home; the medieval village of Vigoleno; pastries from Tosi in Salsomaggiore; a cycling stop to enjoy the scenery; hunting in Piedmont with son Oliver. My GLOSSY WEEKEND KATE MACKLIN Founder of a furniture export company, Kate M
Photo Michel Gibert. Used for reference. TASCHEN / www.sia-deco.fr French Art de Vivre Long Island. Sofa per elements, designed by Studio Roche Bobois. Coupole. Console and cocktail table, designed by Philippe Bouix. La Ligne. Floor lamp, designed by Angioni et Louvry. European manufacture. UNIT
INTERVIEW LETS DO LUNCH by Heather Astbury PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDREW CROWLEY Maggie OFarrells new memoir, an account of near-death experiences, is an elegy of love for her family F eeling sorry for yourself isnt helpful, says Maggie OFarrell emphatically, with what I quickly learn is her signature n
BUSINESS NEWS MAKING IT HAPPEN Backing women business leaders FASHION, POST-BREXIT THE IMPACT ON THE UK FASHION INDUSTRY WILL AFFECT US TOO ... A s we edge ever further into the murky waters of a post-Brexit world, many of Irelands business concerns have centred on the financial services indust
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DOLCE & GABBANA AW17 Ive been lucky to witness the STORY of the CENTURY. CAITRÍONA PERRY The AW17 catwalks reflected diversity, strength and individuality. What does it take to stand out? PENNY McCORMICK is inspired by five role models CAITRÍONA PERRY BECAUSE: Having caused a stir in the Oval O
PEOPLE PRIME TIME WATCH: First They Killed My Father, on September 15, directed by Angelina Jolie, 42. An adaptation of Cambodian author and human rights activist Loung Ungs memoir of surviving the Khmer Rouge regime from 1975 to 1978; the story is told through Ungs eyes from the age of five to nin
PEOPLE ADEKOYA WEARS: black tulle blouse; pink pleat-front skirt; both Simon Rocha at Havana, Donnybrook Dublin 4. Photographed by Veronika Faustmann. Make-up by Bianca Rafaella using MAC Cosmetics. MELISSA HAMILTON 28, Irish ballerina and first soloist with The Royal Ballet BECAUSE: At 17 she was
PEOPLE LARAGH MC CANN BECAUSE: Having worked with the best creatives in the fashion business, McCann, 27, is putting her experience to good use, serving up several strong directorial projects MC CANN WEARS: Lilac sweater with gold embellishment; lilac and burgundy wool skirt; brown patent leather
PEOPLE BEATTIE WEARS: Forest green fringe midi dress, at Zara. Shot on location at Residence, St Stephens Green, Dublin 2. Photographed by Al Higgins. Make-up by Aoife Smith at Brown Sugar Dublin; Hair by Tina Mooney at SugarCubed Clarendon Street. DAVID BEATTIE BECAUSE: As an author, blogger and
PEOPLE AGELESS STYLE MYRTLE ALLEN 93, cultural icon BECAUSE: She has had a profound influence on how Irish food and cuisine is perceived internationally, and was the subject of a recent documentary by David Hare. ODONOGHUE WEARS: Claret satin doublebreasted tuxedo suit; black bag with bee motif; b
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PHOTOGRAPH BY LOUISE SA MUELSON FIRST PERSON THE MOTHER OF INVENTION Seven years ago, creative director and stylist, Paula Hughes lifestyle was a whirlwind of fashion shoots and long-distance travel, then she and her husband received the terrible news that their two-year daughter had a rare neu
FIRST PERSON All our hopes and dreams for Kayla, our plans for our and her future in smithereens. We were looking at a syndrome that would rob our little girl of the most basic abilities. She would need one-on-one care, for the rest of her life. Shed never be able to talk to us, communicate with us
PROMOTION French illustrator QUENTIN MONGE has created a series of bright and graphic artworks inspired by Kronenbourg BLANC. We talked exclusively to Quentin about his work, his inspiration and life in Paris llustrator Quentin Monges graphic works are full of light and sunshine, making him the id
PROMOTION I GET THIS WARM SUNLIGHT ON MY BALCONY AT THIS TIME OF DAY SO ITS A GOOD TIME TO SIT AND HAVE A BEER, PUT SOME VINYLS ON. Paris, where Monge lives, is a big source of inspiration for him. My studio is in the 11th arrondissement, a really popular area with lots of young people, bars and r
STAND UP & STAND OUT MY FICTIONAL HEROINE IS LARA CROFT. WHEN IM OFF DUTY, I SPEND TIME WITH MY SON AND GO TO THE GYM. BARA UP FRONT LEFT: NICOLE, 22, WEARS: Striped polo-neck top; cream shearling jacket with gold zips; red velvet skirt with gold zips; all TOMMY HILFIGER. Burgundy leather lace-up
BOLD MOVE CORDELIA, 50, WEARS: Colourblock wrap skirt, Carolyn Donnelly The Edit, d79, DUNNES STORES. Burgundy sweater with side slits, d12.95; burgundy quilted velvet coat, d69.95; both ZARA. 18ct gold Mesh Scarf earrings, Elsa Peretti for TIFFANY & CO. IM INVOLVED IN THE AMERICAN ARTS DEPARTMENT
STAND UP & STAND OUT THERE ARE SO MANY MORE OPPORTUNITIES TO BECOME A MODEL THESE DAYS AS THE FASHION WORLD HAS REALISED BEAUTY COMES IN ALL SHAPES, SIZES, COLOURS AND AGES. CORDELIA MASTER PIECES CORDELIA WEARS: Camel wool full-length coat with cape sleeves; camel cashmere sweater; both MAX MARA,
EARN YOUR STRIPES NICOLE WEARS: Red striped tunic; red stripe shorts; silver Gabrielle leather bag; silver glitter boots; all CHANEL. Red and black lacquer bangles, Elsa PerettI, d540 each, TIFFANY & CO. IF YOURE INTERESTED IN BEING A MODEL, WORK ON BEING CONFIDENT AND COMFORTABLE IN YOUR SKIN. EAT
STAND UP & STAND OUT NEW FOCUS LEFT: BARA WEARS: Black wool jacket; black wool waistcoat; red silk shirt; black cage velvet shoes; all HERMÉS. RIGHT: CORDELIA WEARS: Red faux-fur check coat; white patent leather knee-high boots; both MIU MIU. Red knit sweater, d57; red knit skirt, d70; both Autogra
CAMERA READY BARA WEARS: Navy wool sweater; navy check wide-leg trousers; black kittenheel ankle boots; black leather beret; red JAdior leather flap bag with embellished wide shoulder strap; all CHRISTIAN DIOR. THIS SEASON ILL BE WEARING WIDE BELTS, FLORALS AND A TOUCH OF RED. BARA MEET THE TEAM L
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Beauty LOS THE G L S EXC USIVE DRESS UP Blend it like Beckham with the designers glamorous new beauty collection. Sarah Halliwell met her in London 4 W hen youre photographed as regularly as Victoria Beckham, you learn plenty of tricks along the way. As the designer launches a whole new beaut
AH HALLI WE LL Buffet SEA POWER Why were diving into marine beauty O f all the wonder ingredients we come across each week at the beauty desk, from blueberries to turmeric, the one that has instant appeal is anything connected to the sea. Regular sea swimmers swear by the bracing effects of s
BEAUTY THE COLLECTION GIAMBATTISTA VALLI Some beauty collections feature star products; others are just desirable in their entirety. Welcome to Travel Diary, CHANELs AW17 make-up. We defy you to resist the Palette Essentielle (c60), with concealer, highlighter and cheek colour in one neat compact;
THIS WONDERFUL LITTLE PLACE . . . A LVO R, PO RTU GAL PR manager at Claridges hotel in Mayfair, Orla Hickey loves dining in this tranquil fishing village C laridges always has a wonderful buzz about it and is such a great place to people watch. I joined eight years ago in August 2009, straight fr
TR ISH DES E I E FOO D Y N B FOOD L Navigating trends in food fashion, TRISH DESEINE finds an interesting green scene emerging as autumn arrives ... ike it or not, food has become the new social currency and preferred form of artistic expression of the masses, and there are few signs tha
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INTERIORS LIFE Kenneth Jay Lane was known as the King of Faux and his jewellery and vintage pieces are now collectors items. Before his death, POLLY DEVLIN visited the designer in his maximalist Park Avenue residence in New York I THE SUMPTUOUS SALON Orientalist paintings glow against the chocola
of Marie-Blanche de Polignac, the daughter of couturier Jeanne Lanvin. The mahogany and faux ebony surround of the overmantel and fireplace is copied from the Empireinspired doors of her library, designed by architect Emilio Terry, and there are some wonderful paintings, including one of The Sleep o
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BOOKS SPEAKING VOLUMES Update your coffee table with these covetable books BEDSIDE TABLE What is JUSTINE PICARDIE reading? Editor-in-chief of Harpers Bazaar and Town & Country, Picardie is the author of five books. Her newly-reissued Coco Chanel The Legend and The Life, is the definitive biograp
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L S EXC USIVE GAME CHANGER LOS THE G Though the work of Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson may be an aquired taste, theres no denying his unique vision, technical brilliance and ground-breaking approach to fashion, says PENNY McCORMICK Jonathan Anderson loves Constance Spry. Im delighted
This Glossy Life influence on his aesthetic. In the past he has also admitted that humour is a part of his design arsenal (check the souwester hats in the AW17 collection or the show invite on Irish linen with the words You Cant Take It With You, for evidence) while his inspirations have run the gam
THIS GLOSSY LIFE Artist Kelly Beeman caught the attention of Jonathan Anderson on Instagram, and now her pictures have found their way onto his pieces. JW ANDERSON AW17 JW Andersons workshop; a collaborative retail space in London MY SCENT Loewe 001. JONATHAN ANDERSON MUSIC When I work, I list
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